Fairytale and Charles Perrault

A
French folktale,
‘The Bluebeard’ (see Figure 6), was first written
down by the famous French author Charles Perrault (see Figure7) who regarded
as the father of the fairytale (T .Evans, 1805). The story talks about a
young woman marries a rich blue-bearded (see Figure 8) widower who also
notorious for his cruelty. He forbids her from
enters the lock chamber, proclaiming that disobedience can put her at
risk or even death. Like those before her the
defiant wife enters the room (see Figure 9 & Figure 10). Discover the gruesome scene which there his murdered
predecessors (see Figure 11). Frightened, she drops the key into a pool of
blood. Due to the key is permanently stained, Bluebeard finds out her noncompliance
(see Figure 12). He is about to kill her, but she is narrowly escapes his
clutches in a nick of time (see Figure 13). The brothers of the wife and her
sister arrive and execute Bluebeard (see Figure 14). Eventually his wife
inherits his fortune and castle (Heta Pyrhönen, 2010).

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King Henry VIII and ‘The Bluebeard’

 Henry VIII was the King of England during 16th
century (see Figure 11).  He was the second Tudor monarch and popular for his six
marriages. In evidence the King Henry VIII were came earlier than the Bluebeard
of Charles Perrault by roughly one and a half century. Generally, it was
believed that the behavior of the Bluebeard killing his wife was greatly
inspired by the King Henry VIII’s marriages. Although Henry Tudor was based on
England, the story of him and his six wives was much well-known in French as in
England (Casie E. Hermansson, 2009). It can help to gain
more interesting inspiration for the collection through the fashion costume and
accessories of the era by utilizing the blueprint to determine the background
of the story.

 

Greatest story collectors the Brothers Grimm

In the early 19th
century, the Brothers Grimm (see Figure) began to collect the folk tales. In
fact, the intention of the Grimms is to preserve the stories and morals that emanated naturally from the German people. As
their stories were in an oral tradition and it could easily oblivion. The
stories in their first edition Kinder- und Hausmärchen (Children and Household Tales)
(see Figure) which published in two volumes in 1812 and 1815 are often brutal
and bloody (Zipes,J,
2015). Following the step of
Charles Perrault ‘The Bluebeard’ was rewritten for the first edition by the
Grimms of Grimm’s Fairytales. However it subsequently eliminated from the later
due to the large proportions of French origin in the story (Maria Tatar, 2003).

Looking in to
another version of ‘The Bluebeard’ which formulated by the Grimms , it had
mentioned about a basin that used to collect the blood and was found in the
Bluebeard’s château (royal or lordly dwelling usually located in the
countryside). Through the use of blood for bathing, the Bluebeard believes that
this motive can cure his blue beard (Winfried
Menninghaus, 1999). It
was believed that social discrimination of the minority has become a flashpoint
for Blue Beard to open homicides, since his first bride could not have entered
the lock chamber and found a dead wife. Without discrimination, the Bluebeard
and his first bride could have a happy ending which different from origins. In terms of concept, the moral and virtues of ‘The
Bluebeard’ give a strong contribute to the collection. Instead of just being a
fashion item, the collection also bring out the message which the world should
learn more to accept different aspect of beauty.

 

 

An industry embellished by fairy tales.

            Fairy
tales have physically been aligned with the world of high-end fashion for quite
a long time. Indeed, fairy tale is full of
visual narratives that have subsequently inspired the conception and the imagination
of a designer, regardless both consciously and subconsciously throughout
fashion’s history. Fashion is one of the inseparable object presences
with fairy tale. No matter in what era, the fashion industry will always have a
designer to bring the dream come true. Used fairy tale as the inspiration to
embellish their designs and released one of the opulent collection to the world.

Fairytale is trendier than ever
before. In recent seasons many luxury brands have obtained much applause for
their elevated take on folkloric aesthetic, like the Valentino Pre-Fall 2013 collection
(see Figure 15 & Figure 16). Furthermore, in
the autumn and winter 2014 collection, Dolce
& Gabbana used “Enchanted Sicily” as the inspiration which borrowed from the
Brothers Grimm (see Figure 17 &
Figure 18). All the familiar fairy-tale
elements such as capes, hoods and peasant dresses were peppered throughout the
whole collection to infuse a very creative visual effect. Creative design with
a seductive Fairy
Tale theme and a fantastical runway creation like something out from the tales certainly
resonates right now (Rebecca Gonsalves, 2014).

Popular culture has
also a large part to play, bringing all the tales to life is also the hot
topics in this few seasons (see Appendices 1). All
the classic fairy tales have been presented in real life in the big screen, and
made the vintage and bold Renaissance fashion style return again to the fashion
mainstream in this 21st century. See the recent season
runway show of Gucci or Dolce and Gabbana, is not difficult to find out that
the fashion runways have been certainly infused by the retro elements like the
puffy sleeve, ruffles, laces and others (see Figure 19 & Figure 20).

Inspiration
from ‘The Bluebeard’

Garment plays a compelling role in fairy tales, filled with
magical powers; represent vanity or wealth of particular characters. Fairy
tales usually only provide some plots, in addition to what the plot needs,
clothing and accessories are often vivid description of the genre to enhance
the overall sense. Therefore the very first step to develop the design is
looking into the clothing and accessories of each character. As it turns out,
King Henry VIII and his daughter Elizabeth I (see Figure 21) were the most influential
people of Renaissance fashion. Likewise the
Tudor monarchs of England (see Figure 23) had probably the most significant impact on Western
European fashions of the 16th century (Peter Ackroyd, 2013).

In the Renaissance era, there were a lot of
iconic fashion features and elements which were also imbued in the story such as
puffy sleeve and square neckline will be use it as the inspiration of the silhouette
and structure to create a vintage look for the collection (see Figure 24).
Dates back to the 16th century, the materials and grandness of clothing varied greatly between the classes due to the sumptuary laws (Paige L. Hanson, 2010). For example, during that
time a mid-class woman would dress a much looser corset and with some
accessories such as waist bag. Whereas it could also found on the last wife in
the tale (see Figure 25). The intended was to make more convenient for their
daily routine and movement. Bringing out the clever yet rebellious behavior of
the last wife, the waist bag was able to fully represented how the defiant
wife’s identity act as the inspiration for the design of trousers in this
collection (see Figure 26).

The climax of ‘The Bluebeard’ story is the moment when
his last wife opened the Forbidden Room and found out all the murdered
predecessors were hanging inside the room (see Figure 10).  This scenario provides greater inspiration to
the collection. It might be a bit disturbing for using the head of all murdered
predecessors as the inspiration to create an exciting and unique print which
might be the design of the skirt for the collection (see Figure & Figure).

In addition, applying the Tudor arch shape (see Figure)
design panel and decorate with the ruffle details around the edge (see Figure
27)
into the design to greatly representing the Forbidden room (see Figure
28).
By adding the ruffle details around the edge as to response the ideal of
this collection that had mentioned earlier. If the world is more willing to use
tolerance instead of discrimination, the dark forbidden chamber in
the Bluebeard
castle will never exist.

Lastly, the “key” with permanent stained (see
Figure 29) is also another interesting point as an inspiration to develop more
unique texture for the design. Trying to play with the pigment, using different
shade of red colors to paint it on top of the fabric to create the effect as to
bring the “key” with permanent stained to life. Might exploit the texture
to the back of the long jacket or on top of the mini dress on the collection to
make the retro design looks even more startling and unique (see Figure &
Figure).

 

 

 

 

 

The
Aesthetic of outré

The final collection will be named as ‘The aesthetic of
outré’ and released at 2019
spring and summer season. Outré is to be
outrageous, unusual and perhaps a touch bizarre. Named this collection as ‘The aesthetic of outré’ does not mean
that the appeal design of this collection will be highly unconventional, in
contrast, it is to encourage or remind the customer to appreciate all different
kind of beauty even it is a bit odd. In this collection, all 6 designs
will cover from sleeveless top to a long jacket; mini dress to a loose trouser
(see Figure 2).

In order to reduce
the immature of the garment which bring out by the youthful silhouette design, added
the chalky quality retro pestle colors (see Figure 4) to this collection can
help to find a balance between maturity and eccentric. Not just the colors
trend of spring and summer of 2019 (Jane Bodd, 2017), the mid-tones retro
pastel colors have also created a very vintage appeal for the garment which is totally
suitable with the theme.

The choice of
fabric for this collection will be more concerned in the materials and textiles trend of SS2019. According to
the trend forecasting, a return to simplicity and rusticity is the key for the
spring and summer seasons of 2019 (Helen Palmer
Skliarova, 2017).  For this
reason, the final fabric choice of the collection will be cotton or linen with
a super-matte quality and combine with others fabric like jersey, satin and
sheer chiffon to make the surface of the garment will not be so monotonous (see Figure 5).

All designs will combine both
Renaissance outline silhouette and dusty color tone of fabric to create a slightly
dark fairy tale mood which have also obviously show it in the mood board (see
Figure). In that case, people who need to dress more steadily and mature in their
daily life or in the workplace but often looking
to stand out from the crowd in the same time will be drawn to this
series of designs (see Figure).

In the end, even
if it does not have a great impact this collection will still bring a little
progress for the world. The virtue which unfolded from ‘The Bluebeard’ should
be instilling from one generation to the next, and let the world know that after  putting aside prejudice, everything will be as
beautiful as epic.